Dismantling The Rear Wheel
Start by removing the rear break mechanism.
First, remove the clip that keeps the break rod attached to the break pedal.
Slide the break rod out of the break pedal.
First, remove the clip that keeps the break rod attached to the break pedal.
Slide the break rod out of the break pedal.
Next undo the bolt that holds the break pedal and return spring to the rear break bracket using a 18mm socket (SAE size 23/32)
Put the bolt and the spring in a coin bag, label and put somewhere safe.
Put the bolt and the spring in a coin bag, label and put somewhere safe.
Unclip the spring from the rear break light switch. Then, using a flat headed screwdriver, Unscrew the screw that holds the break light spring to the break rod and remove it. Take off the bracket that the screw was in also.
.... and bag 'em up!
.... and bag 'em up!
Undo the nut that connects the break rod to the break plate using a 14mm socket (SAE size 17/32). Put the bolt in a bag, label it and put somewhere safe.
Next, using an 11mm socket (SAE size 7/16), remove the rear wheel adjuster nut and the end cap bracket. The end cap bracket may need gently tapping with a rubber mallet to remove it.
Next, using a 24mm socket (SAE size 15/16), undo the left hand rear wheel nut.
Place this and the rear wheel adjuster assembly in a bag and label.
Repeat the last two steps for the right side also.
Place this and the rear wheel adjuster assembly in a bag and label.
Repeat the last two steps for the right side also.
Note: there should also be a bolt holding the break plate to the frame, but this is missing on mine.
Now by gently and patiently wiggling the tire from side to side you should be able to ease it free.
Remove the nut on top of the break plate and the nut on the other side next to the speedometer.
Put these in the same bag as the rear wheel adjusters.
Put the break plate, with the break shoes still attached. to one side.
The speedometer should also slide off, but to be honest mine was a bitch to get off. Ended up using a puller.
Put these in the same bag as the rear wheel adjusters.
Put the break plate, with the break shoes still attached. to one side.
The speedometer should also slide off, but to be honest mine was a bitch to get off. Ended up using a puller.
Next remove the eight bolts that hold the sprocket to the rear wheel hub.
Bag and label them.
Remove the sprocket and put it somewhere safe.
Bag and label them.
Remove the sprocket and put it somewhere safe.
Next to remove the spindle and rear wheel bearings.
First remove the bearing retainer on the break plate side. This is suppose to be done using a peg spanner, but I just used a screwdriver in one of the little dents and gave it a gentle tap to unscrew it.
Now is the difficult part and I mean difficult. In fact, it took me two days and was a dam right bitch. The bearings are "drive fit" or in other words "jammed into the wheel hub". To remove it you have to "strike" the spindle with a mallet to push the spindle and opposite bearing out the other side. This is going to be tough, it's really stuck in there. I suggest putting the nut back on the spindle, so it is flush with the end, so the spindle thread is not damaged. I read the soaking it in petrol helps to loosen it, I didn't do this though. I suggest lots of WD 40 and gently heating the hub to expand the metal slightly. Then give it a good seeing to with the mallet, Just hit the spindle with the mallet, if it doesn't come out get a little angrier and hit is harder and harder and harder and then.... BASTARD! the spindle shot out and hit me in the bloody ankle bone. God it hurt. I suppose you would call it Me 1 - 1 Wheel Bearings.
Do not loose the bearing retainer that is underneath the bearing on the break plate side.
First remove the bearing retainer on the break plate side. This is suppose to be done using a peg spanner, but I just used a screwdriver in one of the little dents and gave it a gentle tap to unscrew it.
Now is the difficult part and I mean difficult. In fact, it took me two days and was a dam right bitch. The bearings are "drive fit" or in other words "jammed into the wheel hub". To remove it you have to "strike" the spindle with a mallet to push the spindle and opposite bearing out the other side. This is going to be tough, it's really stuck in there. I suggest putting the nut back on the spindle, so it is flush with the end, so the spindle thread is not damaged. I read the soaking it in petrol helps to loosen it, I didn't do this though. I suggest lots of WD 40 and gently heating the hub to expand the metal slightly. Then give it a good seeing to with the mallet, Just hit the spindle with the mallet, if it doesn't come out get a little angrier and hit is harder and harder and harder and then.... BASTARD! the spindle shot out and hit me in the bloody ankle bone. God it hurt. I suppose you would call it Me 1 - 1 Wheel Bearings.
Do not loose the bearing retainer that is underneath the bearing on the break plate side.
Fit the spindle loosely into a vice and again strike the spindle, with much less force this time, to remove the bearing from the spindle.
To remove the bearings from the other side use a socket extender, or similar implement. Slide it through the wheel hub and knock the bearing out.
The read wheel is not disassembled.
The read wheel is not disassembled.